Restaurant Review: Big Windmill Private Kitchen
Written by Neil Yeung
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Stepping through the front door of this 1930s Spanish villa, you might believe you've been transported back in time. Once the home of US Air Force Flying Tiger Claire Chennault and his wife, Anna Chan Chennault (Chen Xiangmei), the villa is now home to the Big Windmill Restaurant, a classic Shanghainese eatery that recalls the city's storied early years.
As a former residence, Big Windmill still feels warm and inviting, like a visit to an old, monied aunt or uncle. The original furnishings, mostly dark hardwood and weathered leather, are still in use, providing a rich visual appetizer to the comforting food.
The cuisine served at Big Windmill is traditional Shanghainese. Characterized by a liberal use of sugar and soy, Shanghainese cuisine tends to cater to a sweeter palate. Plenty of fresh seafood, hearty braised meats and filling bite-sized eats ("xiao chi") are featured on the menu, which is presented in English, Chinese and Japanese. Prices range from 20-50 RMB for appetizers, 100-200 RMB for mains, and upwards to 1188 RMB for the special shark's fin. They also have a modest wine list, with both Old and New World selections.
We began with a sampling of warm hua diao, a Shanghainese yellow rice wine. Anna Chan, the former lady of the house, had a particular liking for this amber-hued alcohol, which was stored on-site in an old porcelain pot and served in an ornate wooden jug decorated with bold, ancient, bat motifs. The wine itself - pleasant, aromatic and sweet - left a somewhat savoury and salty aftertaste, quite similar to the dishes that followed.
Our first course was steamed Longjing river shrimp (long jing he xia ren), a classic local offering. The plump shrimp were bigger than usual, providing a crunchier bite. Doused in the accompanying vinegar, the taste was refreshingly light, with the shrimp's natural aroma neutralized by the sourness of the vinegar. Paired with small cups of hot Longjing tea, the dish was delicious.
Another Shanghainese staple followed: braised pork belly in sweet red sauce (si fang hong shao rou). Presented neatly in a modest bowl, the chunks of meat were generously covered in the aforementioned red sauce (a mix of ginger, scallions, soy sauce, rice wine and sugar). Each layer of the pork belly was quite tasty and satisfying: the lower portion of flesh was tender and flavorful, while the top piece of fat was wonderfully soft and buttery. The combination of textures and flavors results in one of the more successful versions I've had the chance to try.
After a palate cleansing plate of leafy greens, we had shad fish steamed in wine (jiu zao zheng shi yu). My initial reaction to the tough flesh, hard scales, and many protruding bones was apprehension. However, after tasting a few pieces, the flavor was quite enjoyable. The wine fragrance mixed nicely with the saltiness of the fish and the bones were manageable. If fish flesh is not enough for you, the scales are also edible.
Our final dish, Huaiyang style tofu strands (huai yang zhu gan si), was a subtle conclusion to our meal. The tofu strands, soaked in savory chicken stock, were delightfully elastic and extremely tasty, like heavily marinated noodles. The accompanying sauce was filled with river shrimp and vegetables. Of the entire meal, this was my personal favorite, for its softer and simpler approach.
We ended with a lightly-flavored soup of yellow croaker fish and lily petals in a thick broth (bai he huang yu geng), whose flavor was very understated but satisfying.
Overall, the relaxed atmosphere and friendly service staff complimented the meal well. The food is comforting and simple, allowing the diner to feel as if they were enjoying something home-cooked. Yet, surrounded by such an air of classic old Shanghai grace, you're reminded that this experience may be better than sitting at home in your dining room.
In defiance of the stereotypical opinion that Shanghainese cuisine must be overly sweet and drowning in oil, Big Windmill provides a clean and subtle representation of the local fare. A recommended introduction to Shanghainese cuisine.
Service: Helpful, informed, polite, friendly smiles
Atmosphere: Soft old Shanghai music, quiet conversation, clean
Purpose: Business meals (private rooms available on 3rd floor), dates for adults
Price: 100~200 per person
Location(s)
1440 Hongqiao Road (near Yan An Overpass), part of the Shen Kan g Hotel.
Tel: 021-62088260
Service quality: very good
Food quality: very good
Price per head (RMB): 100-200
Environment: very good
Feature dish or menu:
- Braised pork belly in sweet red sauce (si fang hong shao rou) 49 RMB
- Longjing river shrimp (Longjing he xia ren ) 108 RMB
- Sautee of crab meat & roe with fish
- Shad fish steamed in wine (jiu zao zheng shi yu) 158 RMB
- Huai-Yang Tofu Strands (Huai yang zhu gan si )
- Yellow Croaker and Lily Soup (Bai he huang yu geng) 16 RMB
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