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bleucheese
Veejay
Joined: Aug 01, 2003
Posts: 1980
Location: this side of the tracks
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 Posted:
Feb 02, 2005 - 11:45 AM |
 
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| Post subject: Three....is the magic number |
Threesome
Third input
Three foot bong
Three on the Bund
Home to too many restaurants/bars/shops to list.
Venue: Jean-Georges.
Food: Asian inflected French
Entrance on a side road adjacent to the bund (opposite the entrance to M). Up
the cramped elevator (holds 6 uncomfortably) up to the 5th? floor. Opens to a
hallway that goes left and right. No signs. No greeting. Two of us went left.
Two went right. The right was in the right.
Hostess and coat check woman standing by a podium in a dark corner.
Dark is the general them of the decor. Hostess leads you through the GRAND
ENTRANCEWAY into the bar area. Has kind of an old boys club vibe to it. Dark red
seats. Seats maybe 70. Holds maybe 200. Absolutely deserted at 7:30.
Through the other GRAND ENTRANCEWAY into the dining room. Mostly deuces by the
windows. A few large tables. Banquettes scattered through the center of the
dining room. Dark. Black window trimmings. Black curtains. Dark red accents.
Dark red upholstry. Dark red banquettes. Black uniformed servers/waitresses.
Muted copper colored ceilings. Dimmed incandescent lighting. DARK.
Seated and I notice music.....bjork. Bjork? BJORK. They were playing Bjorks latest. Not too loud. But loud enough that I could make it out. And then 2 or 3 albums in the same genre. And then back to Bjork. I cant believe that they only had 3 albums. And I cant believe I was sitting in a Jean-Georges restaurant...listening to Bjork.
Menu: Everyone receives one small menu and one large.
On the small: left side is a 6 course seasonal menu for 598 (in bold print at
the bottom..."price does not include service charge") Right side is the 7 course
tasting menu for 798...again with the reminder. The whole table must take the
tasting.
On the large: 8 apps, 2 soups/salads, 5 meat, 5 fish.
We opted for a la carte.
Nice touch: One of the diners I was with asked the sommelier (who for all
intensive purposes served as a captain) what 'squab' was in French. Rather than
respond with the typical chinese 'I dont know. bye', she told my companion 'I
have no idea but I will find out for you.' 5 minutes later she had the answer
(caille). Though I suspect that 'caille' is quail and squab is NOT quail.
Wine List. Simple. Not too extensive. Heavy on the French. Female sommellier
(from Singapore) recommended a Bordeaux. I went with a Bourgogne: Louis Jadot
2000 Pinot Noir.
Evain/San Pelligrino
Wine went well with everything ordered.
Served in Speigalau glasses.
Bread: Suprisingly bad. 2 options: sliced whole wheat or rye/pumpernickel with
dried fruit in it. Taste like they bought it at Carrefour. When they shouldve
shelled out a few extra yuan for the ritz bakery.
Amuse Bouche: Three shot glasses meant to be chewed/swallowed in one gulp.
1) Mandarin orange nectar with a goat cheese ravioli
2) Beurre Blanc with a lemon ravioli
3) Thai basil puree with galanga jelly
The first one was interesting if a bit sweet. There was a noticeable hint of
star anise that was a nice bridge between the tang of the goat cheese and
natural sweetness of the mandarin.
The second was fairly heavy on the palate. The beurre blanc not only coated my
mouth but my throat and beyond. I love a nice beurre blanc with dishes on the
lighter side (and the lemon ravioli was beautifully delicate) but a healthy
gulp of melted butter and cream from a shot glass....
The third one....was not to my liking. The shockingly intense flavor of the
basil fighting for attention with gellatinous exotic ginger tasting slithery
globules. To each his own.
Apps:
Crackling sesame crusted sea scallops.
Sauteed Foie Gras, Chestnut and XO sauce
Crab Cake with Lemon Ginger Broth, pickled cucumber, avocado puree
Foie Gras Brulee, Cherry compote
Observation: SMALL portions. Smaller than T8. Smaller than M. Smaller than any
joint in Xintiandi. Smaller than NYC Jean Georges.
Crab cakes were decent- jumbo lump crab meat. No BS filler from what I could
discern. Sauce had a nice asian NATURALLY sweet sour thing going on. I finished
them in four bites.
Sea scallops (4 of them) were overcooked. I think they were going for a nice
light crunchy sesame crust with the tender delicate sweet meat of the scallop within.
They failed. Perhaps they shouldve used jumbo scallops and seared them.
The Sauteed Foie Gras was excellent. But again, in three bites it was finished.
The Foie Gras Brulee, I didnt sample.
We finished our appetizers (and the first bottle of Pinot) in about 15 minutes flat.
New bottle of Pinot (same...2000 LJ). The female server correctly brought a new glass and I had a companion do the tasting. Approval. Then the waitress, to my astonishment, tops off everyones glasses (half filled with the FIRST bottle). When she goes to take the tasting glass away, my companion, not realizing that she had just mixed his intitial glass, explained 'No. I need that glass. Thats the new bottle.' I gently told him to let it slide, she already mixed the wines in everyones glasses.
Silence and confused looks as she walks away and after 30 seconds, a dreaded statement from my guest of honor: 'Hey, we shouldnt be too hard on them. I mean this is China.'
Entrees:
Black Cod
Veal Medallions with a smoked chili glaze
Squab with foie gras
Garoupa
Forgot most of the sides. Forgot the sauces. Mine, the Veal, came with baby bok choy (or cai sin in mandarin). 3 tiny baby bok choy on a side plate. The winner was DEFINITELY the black cod. Succelent, as fresh as can be. I remember it being served in a light broth. Excellent. My veal was cooked expertly and had a nice subtle yet not overpowering smoky flavor throughout. My guest commented that the 'garoupa' (or grouper as we call it) was nicely done but....small.
Desserts:
A choice of 4 dessert tastings:
Tropical
Seasonal
Chocolate
Vegetable
Or a selection of cheese.
No ala carte available.
One vegetable dessert plate.
One chocolate.
The vegetable dessert plate had 4 different items that went into the blackhole that is my memory.
The chocolate plate had 4 desserts: a warm chocolate cake, a brownie with a beet sauce, an ice cream (i think white chocolate) and something else- I believe a mousse.
Desserts were...okay. Nothing all that special. Even the famous Jean-Georges Warm Chocolate cake (he is the originator) didnt pitch a tent for me. I think the brownie was actually the winner.
3 glasses of Taylor 20 year old Tawny Port.
Petit-Fours
16 petit fours served. Most had nuts. I refrained.
Homemade marshmallows. Coffee, Rose, and Vanilla marshmallows cut tableside.
A cute trick that closes all Jean Georges meals.
Service. One might expact European professionalism. But the two words that best describe the service at JG are: Chinese efficiency. Taken to an extreme. The exact moment the last of us finsihed a dish, two servers would appear out of nowhere and pull the plates and reset the table. I think the whole meal took about an hour and 15 minutes. I didnt feel rushed but I didnt feel relaxed either.
TOTAL: 3332 + 368 (tip) = 3700rmb
Verdict: Quarter-erection.
Admittedly, I expected ALOT from Jean Georges. I walked in there fully prepared to moan in ecstacy and cream in my pants. I thought it would be the standard for fine dining in Shanghai, the restaurant by which all other haute cuisine joints would be measured against. Once again, I was wrong.
I went home and fried up a steak. |
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42
Raver
Joined: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 445
Location: half way btwn here and hell
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| Posted:
Feb 02, 2005 - 01:42 PM |
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and three grand for the total. sounds about what my brother-in-law paid last time he and a friend went there. ouch....
i will probably opt to spend 30 RMB at Rendevous Cafe and spend the rest buying the most kick ass set of cooking utensils. i really do need a good 12 inch chef knife.... |
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Caesara
Post Roaster
Joined: July 31, 2004
Posts: 4572
Location: The Middle Kingdom (Shanghai)
Status: Offline
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Feb 02, 2005 - 02:43 PM |
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I would second the comments about the foie gras. I remember it being quite good.
And the bread being shockingly bad!
I do quite like Jean-Georges, nevertheless.
Where's next, Cantankerous Critic?
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melisande
Seeker
Joined: Jan 31, 2005
Posts: 61
Location: home
Status: Offline
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| Posted:
Feb 02, 2005 - 02:47 PM |
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In France, they have their STARS to judge the quality of a restaurant...YOU, CHEESE, you have your 'erections'. Interesting. Did I understand properly?
Even with a 'quarter-erection', I need to check this place out. And judge by myself. |
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richvenom
Barker
Joined: Sep 06, 2004
Posts: 153
Location: Somewhere out there where you aint wanna know
Status: Offline
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Feb 02, 2005 - 03:11 PM |
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Such a much detailed commenting on the meal.
Guess i would have to check it out one of these days too. Just have to wait till i have the impluse to do that. Will do if i manage to move out of my current apartment and that sure call for a celebration somewhere
Rich |
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Bulls**t |
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42
Raver
Joined: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 445
Location: half way btwn here and hell
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Feb 03, 2005 - 08:28 AM |
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so bleucheese,
where have you eaten that has given you a full boner? just curious.
my wife and i are looking for that oh so special place... |
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Do not blame God for having created the tiger, but thank him for not having given it wings. |
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cks69
Ranter
Joined: Aug 06, 2004
Posts: 562
Status: Offline
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Feb 03, 2005 - 09:41 AM |
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For me, Zin was as close to North as I've ever been in shanghai |
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farang
Reacher
Joined: Nov 02, 2004
Posts: 256
Status: Offline
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Feb 03, 2005 - 10:09 AM |
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BROTHER: "And the Lord spake, saying, 'First shalt thou take out
the Holy Pin. Then, shalt thou count to three, no more, no less.
Three shalt be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the
counting shalt be three. Four shalt thou not count, nor either
count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is
right out. Once the number three, being the third number, be
reached, then lobbest thou thy Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch towards
thou foe, who being naughty in my sight, shall snuff it.'"
MAYNARD: Amen.
ALL: Amen.
ARTHUR: Right! One... two... five!
???: Three, sir!
ARTHUR: Three!
[boom] |
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Rabelais
Seeker
Joined: Jan 25, 2005
Posts: 59
Status: Offline
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| Posted:
Feb 03, 2005 - 10:11 AM |
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| melisande wrote: |
In France, they have their STARS to judge the quality of a restaurant...YOU, CHEESE, you have your 'erections'. Interesting. Did I understand properly?
Even with a 'quarter-erection', I need to check this place out. And judge by myself. |
good idea & please tell how you liked it.
BTW: Guide Rouge (michelin) stars are indeed farted out by "professionals". Challenge starts when you compare the star rated places and try to understand why one place got 3 stars, while another just two or vice versa. The Guide also does not provide any editiorial besides its star ratings - so I prefer some errections flanked by detailed comments.
Bluecheese: try to squeeze out another dinner at Club Shanghai! the chef had his own star  rated place back in Europe. |
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melisande
Seeker
Joined: Jan 31, 2005
Posts: 61
Location: home
Status: Offline
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Feb 03, 2005 - 10:14 AM |
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Amen. |
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melisande
Seeker
Joined: Jan 31, 2005
Posts: 61
Location: home
Status: Offline
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Feb 03, 2005 - 10:17 AM |
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rabelais....You have the perfect name to be on this channel and...talk about FOOD. Rabelaisien! |
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bleucheese
Veejay
Joined: Aug 01, 2003
Posts: 1980
Location: this side of the tracks
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| Posted:
Feb 03, 2005 - 10:24 AM |
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dupe |
Last edited by bleucheese on Feb 03, 2005 - 10:30 AM; edited 1 time in total |
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bleucheese
Veejay
Joined: Aug 01, 2003
Posts: 1980
Location: this side of the tracks
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| Posted:
Feb 03, 2005 - 10:27 AM |
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| Quote: |
| where have you eaten that has given you a full boner |
There have been some small local meals that Ive thoroughly enjoyed. Ill have to start keeping notes on them.
But no fine dining in Shanghai has left me...quivering with delight....yet. Im still waiting for that moment I rub my engorged belly and I say to myself, or my companions, 'goddam! that was one of the best meals ive ever had in my life.'
And that happens more often then youd think in paris, tokyo, nyc, london, milan. And I know its only a matter of time for China. My last meal in NYC, Jan. 4, was at Jean Georges. And I had one of those meals.
I still have to check out Sens & Bund, Zin, and quite a few of the hotel joints.
BTW- had a decent meal at California Grill or something or another in the JW Marriot the other night. Decent. But nothing to get wood about.
I also need to go back to the joints Ive been. All restaurants have off nights every now and then plus I get moody. But I dont think the bread situation is going to change anytime soon at JG. Which is unfortunate.
| Quote: |
| Where's next, Cantankerous Critic? |
The gym. |
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melisande
Seeker
Joined: Jan 31, 2005
Posts: 61
Location: home
Status: Offline
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Feb 03, 2005 - 10:56 AM |
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the cheese [dupe]
Huh? Why? |
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Caesara
Post Roaster
Joined: July 31, 2004
Posts: 4572
Location: The Middle Kingdom (Shanghai)
Status: Offline
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Feb 03, 2005 - 11:09 AM |
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[dupe] = "duplicate", I believe, melisande.
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melisande
Seeker
Joined: Jan 31, 2005
Posts: 61
Location: home
Status: Offline
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Feb 03, 2005 - 11:31 AM |
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hmmmm. Still dont understand the relation with what rabelais wrote. Never mind Caesara, thanks for helping at least. |
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carrol
PopStar
Joined: Oct 11, 2004
Posts: 1122
Location: East of Eden
Status: Offline
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Feb 04, 2005 - 08:45 AM |
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Interesting review! Keep up the good work. Jean-Georges aint gonna see me ... |
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Carrol |
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42
Raver
Joined: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 445
Location: half way btwn here and hell
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Feb 04, 2005 - 08:49 AM |
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bleucheese, i suggest you get some graphics to augment your half erection, full erection, etc. should give the moderators no end of headaches |
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Do not blame God for having created the tiger, but thank him for not having given it wings. |
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melisande
Seeker
Joined: Jan 31, 2005
Posts: 61
Location: home
Status: Offline
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| Posted:
Feb 04, 2005 - 11:02 AM |
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talking about erection (half, full) CHEESE...Give me a restaurant that would deserve a full erection if you were not that difficult to satisfy. Please. |
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