Around The River Bend

With the intensity of the Expo opening weekend rising each day, I thought it'd be best to beat the crowds and escape whilst I still could before the six month tourist ridden chaos began.

Taking refuge after a two hours flight south-west of Shanghai to the province of Guangxi, Guilin (桂林) greeted me with its tranquil scenery, a lively and mind boggling night market, and the impressive Lijiang Waterfall Hotel's nightly prompt water show.

Thankful for the warm spring sunshine (opposed to what was predicted on the internet), I combined my options of walking the length of the town along the scenic riverside route, and down the main shopping street Zhongshan Road (中山街).

Dodging the crowds of street dancing (which ranged from salsa to hip hop), and the fruit sellers, I finally arrived at the Solitary Beauty Peak. Enclosed within high stone walls around one of the highest peaks in the city, you are consumed by the relaxing, sanctuary-like atmosphere the 14th century gardens emit. The climb to the top is both steep and tough, but worth the panoramic 360^o view and the plum tea.

Guilin's beauty and scenic areas have been an inspiration for many poets and painters in previous years. The mountains and lakes have even made it into blockbuster films such as Hero which starred Jet Li. Unfortunately, this has also made the city a tourist hotspot, and modern day artisans looking for inspiration will have to battle against the growing crowds and traffic. However a short bike ride can help you lose the crowd, or maybe jump on one of the various bamboo rafts (¥5 RMB) at Liberation Bridge to cruise down the Li River. The river holds various sights, including the Elephant Trunk Hill which resembles an elephant dipping its trunk into the river. Just make sure you get there before it gets dark as it’s lit only by natural sunlight.

As advised by friends, I ventured to Yangshuo (阳朔) which has absolutely breath taking scenery. Yangshuo is a 1 hour bus ride (¥22 RMB) from Guilin, but if you have time (and good weather) taking the bamboo raft (¥120 RMB) is a must. The raft will take you down the Li River where you will pass in-between the famous peaks. In total, it takes about 4 hours for the whole journey for the ride down the river, and the bus to and from the river. There is also a tourist’s boat which comes with an English speaking guide and lunch priced at ¥380 RMB. Either way, I would strong recommend you make the time to see the scenery at its best, and of course, to take THE ¥20 RMB note photograph.

Yangshuo's main street West Road (西街) is lined with shops, restaurants, hostels and bars, making it immediately comfortable to settle in. The Bamboo House Inn is one of the popular hostels with three different locations. If you are on a budget, they offer the best rates for beds (from ¥30 RMB), excursions (¥20 - ¥300 RMB), bicycle hire (¥10 RMB for a day) and ridiculously helpful and friendly staff. With an ample amount of activities available, it’s a tough choice to decide what to do at such reasonable rates.

The Hot Spring and Mud Bath Caves took my vote, for one whole day it cost ¥120 RMB. With a map in hand and bicycle at the ready, I set off through the flush of green peaks to the cave's meeting point, where a guide was waiting to take us into the depths of the cave. Entering the cave via a small wooden boat under a low rock entrance, it is littered with stalactites and stalagmites at every twist and turn, some so high that they vanished in to the darkness.

The mud baths were a weird and wonderful experience, slipping and sliding in a squishy mud lake was definitely a case of mind over matter. After a quick shower under a gushing waterfall, the hot springs provided small relaxation pools for you to slumber in and admire the natural creation surrounding you.

With the bike ride back and sun giving me time to dry off, I decided to take one of the scenic routes via Moon Hill (月亮山) back to Yángshuò's center. (Moon Hill is one of the symbolic locations of Yángshuò, and is a popular climb of over 800 steps to view the mountain landscape from the top.)

If you become lost on the road back to town (as I did) the locals selling fruit along the road side are friendly enough to point you in the right direction. Though if you buy strawberries (like I did), do not put them in your wire basket, as all you will end up with is a jammy paste after ridding over countless rocks and stones!

Rapid river rafting took my attention for another day out (¥130 RMB) which was a heart racing and hilarious experience. Starting at the top of one of the peaks, we went down about twelve intense rapids, stopping at serene, breath-catching waters in-between. Do hold on for dear life as you can be bumped out at any moment and do take spare clothing as you will get soaked. Photographers are dotted along route to catch you spluttering at your best, and locals provide sweet ginger tea and snacks after, donations are of course welcome.

In the evenings there are endless restaurants and bars along West Road, though if you want the more authentic Chinese restaurants, take a wonder a few street back and you will find a mass of local food. There is a large range of local specialties such as the rice noodles, egg wrapped dumplings, beer fish and clay pot dishes on offer. However most dishes come with a lacing hit of chillies so be warned!

Many bars offer happy hour deals and cheap drinks. But if you want a happy hour AND an amazing view, trek up the stairs to the top of Monkey Jane's Hostel, where you will find a beer for ¥8 RMB with a scenic lit up back drop. With endless activities and areas to see, I would most definitely recommend anyone to go and visit this little haven, who needs concrete peaks when you can see the real lush peaks of Guilin?