Day Trip to Qibao

For anyone living here in Shanghai, one of the best things to do is to escape the city itself. For most of us, whether Chinese, Shanghainese, or just another foreigner, the pace at times can be overwhelming. Thus the need to “kick it down a notch” is something that we all can relate to. But many people are in such a hurry to get out of the city that they forget all of the hidden treasures in the city. One of these lesser known gems is definitely Qibao.

As I exited the metro, I didn’t find anything different. I think that one of the reasons I tend to get lost here is because so many places seem to mirror each other. This is mainly true on the Puxi side and the farther I get away from the Bund the more things lend to look the same. However, soon after entering Qibao district, I noticed the difference.

Most people, once they enter through the passage, head directly towards the river or one of the 2 main streets. And yes, I agree with this maneuver but I highly suggest one first turns to the left (or the right, depending on how you enter). Here, away from all of the tempting smells of the local cuisine, away from the crowds of people, is where one might forget that he is in Shanghai.

As we toured through the streets, the local people went on about their daily life. Sure, it’s not the same as it was 80 years ago but it’s definitely a step back into a simpler time. Many of the small shop owners were more curious about me than the other way around. ‘Surely’ they seemed to think, ‘this foreigner must be lost,’ yet to their amazement, we kept forging onward.

My friend who traveled with me explained not only some of the local traditions and the reasoning behind people’s actions but she also enlightened the locals that I was interested in learning more about their culture. The people were more than happy to talk about themselves. One group of men asked why I was taking their photograph, stating that they’re nothing special.

Many of the craftsmen were extremely happy to show off the fruit of their labor. Unlike many other “sellers” who are trying to get you to buy something, these artisans were more interested in explaining their skills, some of which had been handed down through out the generations. Even my traveling companion was amazed at some of the sights, although she has lived her entire life in China: she’d never seen how one makes “puffed rice” for instance. However I will admit, I did turn down the palm reading. I’ve always been afraid to find out what the future holds for me.  

I also recommend buying the “all access” pass that allows you into the bell tower and cultural exhibition among other attractions. In the cultural exhibition, you’ll see first hand how people lived and worked in the early days of Qibao’s settlement. The textile samples are quite nice and even the wax figures give you a true feeling of the time.

And of course, there’s the food. You have to try the chou doufu (stinky tofu) with a touch of spicy sauce - don’t let the name fool you, it’s actually very good. Then again, there are very few foods that I won’t eat twice. Even if this dish doesn’t grab your interest, there’s plenty of food to choose from. I find anything spicy, such as Szechuan food, an excellent choice to complement my beer. And the pig intestine soup was a good call for a starter.

The trip can’t be complete without taking a stroll along the river. Actually there are two waterways and both have their own special characteristics. Unlike some of the other water towns near Shanghai, these riverfronts tend to have a more relaxed feeling as they aren’t as touristy as the others. 

So for anyone looking to escape the daily grind of the big city, Qibao is a must. Simply put, this little neighborhood makes for a perfect day trip. Don’t let the fact that it’s located within the Shanghai city limits fool you. It’s something that’s very special. Small enough that you’ll feel satisfied spending a couple of hours yet exotic enough that you’ll find yourself going back...

if only for the chou doufu.