SHEX Reviews: M on the Bund

SHEX Reviews: M on the Bund

By Sonia Su

Whether you’re planning to stay for the long run or just stopping by the amazing city of Shanghai, there is one spot that everyone should visit: M on the Bund.

Embodying part of the excitement and sophistication of Shanghai, M has been offering both classic and modern cuisine from Europe, the Middle East and North Africa since 1999. Located in the Nissin Shipping Building that was built in 1921, M serves hundreds of people daily who enjoy both the impressive food and incredible views of the Bund.

Just one floor below the restaurant is the Glamour Bar, under the M Restaurant Group and home to Shanghai's International Literary Festival. The colorful design with pink, turquoise, forest green and gold tones create a groovy yet luxurious atmosphere, perfect for a trip before or after M on the Bund.

Featuring three separate bars (wine, champagne, cocktail), the Glamour Bar also offers a new menu of ‘nibbles and feasts,’ ranging from baby buns to delectable small or large bites. As for special drinks, I recommend the Bund Breeze (vanilla vodka, coconut milk and strawberry purée; 88 RMB) and the Cucumber Cooler (beefeater gin, white wine, elderflower syrup, fresh cucumbers, passion fruit purée and orgeat; 98 RMB).

At the M from 6 p.m. for 10:30 p.m. daily, chef Hamish Pollitt runs a remarkable dinner service, with authentic Western cuisine and locally inspired handmade breads, ice creams and desserts. The beautifully designed menu is in both English and Chinese.

On a recent visit, I started off with the flavorful, thick and creamy fish soup (118 RMB). The rouille sauce, croutons and Gruyere cheese that come with it match well. Among the various other starters are linguine and zucchini with pine nuts, lemon and Parmesan (98/198 RMB); Manti dumplings filled with minced lamb and drizzled with spiced yogurt (118/218.00 RMB) and risotto cooked with plump scampi, red tomatoes, grilled blood sausage and fresh marjoram herbs (128/248 RMB).

Next, I tried the smoked salmon (288 RMB), served on a celeriac purée with sautéed spinach and a poached egg, sprinkled with Baltic salmon eggs. The purée, combined with the perfectly cooked and seasoned salmon, has made me reconsider my former aversion to celery. I would return just to enjoy this incredibly tasty dish again.