Tailors v. Fabric Market: In Search of a Good Fit

Taking a trip to the fabric market can be an exciting, if not sensory-overloading, experience. These are places where you can have custom-fitted clothes based on storefront samples, clippings from fashion magazines, or even of your own design. Those who want to design a piece of clothing for themselves (a dress, for example) can, theoretically, draw something to their liking, take it to any of the fabric stalls, choose a fabric and have it custom-made. But before you head out to commission a personalized tuxedo, be aware of the following things:

1)      The people at the Fabric Market are salespeople, they are not neccesarily tailors. Tailors take a commission based on the price that you pay and not all are professionally trained.  A tailor's responsibility is to take your measurement and fit your clothing. For tops or jackets the measurements are: neck, shoulder, chest, waist, hip, front length, front chest, back, arm length and if it’s fitted they should also measure your bicep, forearm and wrist.   A professional tailor would also look at your body type and make adjustments based on the variances of your unique body.
2)      A style consultant is required to assess a person’s body type and personality, what really drives me nuts is when a foreigner at the fabric market asks a sales person (“tailor”) a question about the style.   The individual they ask usually has never left China and has only seen pictures of other countries and is not in the business of style advice.
3)      Your fit is not their fit… In tailor markets there really is only one fit and it’s they’re fit… which I have noticed is never my fit.    I would call the fit a casual to classic fit, which is roomier with more allowance for error.  This is ok if this is the fit you desire.   For bottoms I noticed the standard rise on a men’s pant is 8.5 Chinese inches, whereas I wear a 6.5 inch rise.  This is a huge difference in how high the pants will sit on your hips.
4)      Measurements. Did you know that there is a different measurement type in China Fabric markets?  This measurement is called Chinese inches which are different from North American inches.  Usually this measurement is used in smaller local factories, tailors, and sales offices.

1. For traditional North American Inches to Chinese, the conversion is: 13 1/8” (inches) is equal to 10 Chinese inches, 26 ¼” is equal to 20 Chinese inches,  39 3/8” is equal to 30 Chinese inches.   What we discover is there is 1.3125 North American Inches in a Chinese Inch.
2. Centimeter conversion, however, is a little strange but can realistically be used as a reference for measurement.  3.9 cm is equal to 1 Chinese inch (3.9cm), 10.5cm is equal to 3 Chinese Inches (3.5cm), and 34cm is equal to 10 Chinese inches (3.4cm).  67.4cm is equal to 20 inches (3.37cm).  134cm is equal to 40 Chinese inches (3.35cm).  So what we discover is there is no definitive conversion from centimeters to Chinese inches.

5)      Labor Practices and quality. If you go to a fabric market, you may be purchasing based on the relatively cheap price (remember: all standard prices are bloated and completely negotiable). Fabric markets may use actual sewing factories but may also employee individuals who may in turn use child labor to make the garment. This may be very normal practice in this country and is better than having the child beg for money or sell products on the street, however, quality may suffer.
I have heard many horror stories from the fabric markets, but then again I have friends who are happy with the quality and fit of their purchases from the fabric markets and return on a regular basis for similar types of products.  I also know in-experienced foreign tailors and online B2C e-commerce sites who use the fabric markets to make (manufacture) their products for overseas clients.  As a trained professional I can notice the poor workmanship and finishing but for some clients the quality will suffice for the price they paid.
Another option is to go to more expensive fabric sales, tailors, style consultants who have an independent office and specialize in garment manufacturing.   These specialized tailors may utilize actual sewing factories.  The price for a specialized quality product can be three to four times the price you will pay in the fabric markets but you usually get a better quality fabric, fit, finishing, trims, and service.
Professional tailors can be found throughout the city. The most popular Fabric Market is:

Shanghai South Bund Fabric Market
399 Lujiabang Lu near Zhongshan Nan Lu
Huangpu District
near Nanpu Bridge Metro stop

(Chinese)
南外滩轻纺面料市场
陆家浜路399号近中山南路
Open 9am-6:30pm
Jeffrey Clark has worked in the fashion business in Asia for over 20 years.  He owns a style consultation and custom tailor business called Jeffery Living. His blog is JeffreyLiving Blog. He can be contacted at jeffreyliving@gmail.com.